Tastings at seminars can serve as an introduction into the flavours of the wines of a region, but there is no real substitute for walking the vineyards yourself, having conversations with winemakers and most importantly, enjoying the food and wines of the region on the spot. Some producers still produce their Barolos the old-fashioned way, resulting in subtle flavours with a savoury earthiness, while others employ new methods and the sweeter purity of Nebbiolo.
One can’t talk about Piedmont without mentioning the greatest ambassador of this region and of the country as a whole, Angelo Gaja. He has become known as a true oenological pioneer, being the first to experiment with small French barriques back in the 1960s and finally preferring them over the traditional large oak vats by the 1970s. Gaja was among the first winemakers to emphasize lower yields and severe pruning in order to increase grape and wine quality. He also pioneered the concept of single vineyards in a region where blending was the norm. With amazing foresight, he was the first to plant Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay in Piedmont while others would only follow years later. Gaja opted to leave the DOCG system for his most sought-after, single-vineyard Barbarescos in a public break with tradition.
Gaja has engendered many modernists, each foregoing their own path rather than mimicking or following a leader. Among the top Barolo and Barbaresco producers, there are many divides and debates, pertaining to among other things ripeness levels, the different methods of maceration and winemaking and use of wood for maturation (whether new or old, small or large, French or local).
In reality, top quality Barolo and Barbaresco winemakers employ both traditional and modern methods of winemaking. While strictly traditional producers like Mascarello, Giacomo Conterno and Aldo Conterno may be on one end of the spectrum, the majority of producers are situated somewhere in the middle of it. Quality producers like Vietti, Luciano Sandrone, Renato Ratti and Ceretto, are not extremists but pragmatists who adopt methods that may be old or new, as long as they are advantageous in producing the Nebbiolo they desire.
Not only is there a wide array of winemaking and vineyard philosophies - the region itself is equally diverse. The Consorzio for Barolo and Barbaresco have launched their new map which delineates over 200 specific crus in the region. What makes this region fascinating is that there are so many strong voices and personalities, combined with a legacy of crafting wines that are complete, complex and long-aging. At the end of the day, the debates over what is modern and what is traditional are less important than the passion and dedication to quality on the part of the producers. And this, the Piedmontese posses in abundance.
